Glossary
Beating
After every row you weave, you want to beat the
weft. This means you push the weft threads orderly into place. This way you
make sure to get a symmetric design and even tension throughout your weave.
Beat
The act of pressing
the yarn into place with the rigid heddle.
Dent
Space between the teeth in
the reed through which thread is passed. Dent (also called EPI) refers to
the number of warp threads per inch in a rigid heddle when both holes and
slots are counted. For example - An 8 dent heddle provides uniform spacing
for 8 warp threads per inch when each hole and slot is used for a single
warp thread.
DPI
Dents per Inch
Draft
A chart that instructs the
weaver on how to thread the heddles, tie-up shafts, and treadle a pattern
Ends per inch (epi)
The number of yarns in an
inch of warp
Ends per Inch
Ends per inch (EPI)
refers to the number of warp threads per inch across the width of a project.
When describing a rigid heddle, EPI (also called dent) indicates the number
of holes and slots in one inch of the heddle.
Float
A warp or weft yarn that
travels over more than one warp end or weft pick
Header
Waste yarn that is
woven at the beginning of a project to spread the warp to its full width and
to provide a firm even surface to start your weaving. The header is the yarn
that can be found at the beginning of a weave. The header is used to spread
the warp and provides the weaver with an even surface to work on. When
removing the weave from the loom, the header is normally removed and thrown
away
Heddle
The molded plastic piece in the rigid-heddle that
forms to the holes between the slots. The device that creates the sheds in
weaving and is made up of alternate slots and holes. It is also used to beat
the weft.
Heddle holder
The notched block on the inner face of the loom sides. Holds the heddle
in the upper position (on top of the block) or the lower position (under the
block). When the heddle is in the notch it is in the neutral position.
Loom
A loom is a supporting
structure that is used to weave on. It will hold the warp threads for you
while you are weaving. If the weave is finished, it can be removed from the
loom and support itself without falling apart.
Picks per inch (ppi)
The number of weft
yarns in an inch of weaving
Pick (shot)
One inserted row of
the weft thread
Pick-up Stick
A Pick-up Stick is
a narrow stick used to “pick” a desired pattern in warp threads. It can be
turned on its edge to create a shed, or used along with the rigid heddle to
create additional shed pattern options (e.g. heddle in an up position with a
pick-up stick pulled up against the back of the heddle to raise “picked”
warp threads that are in slots, etc). The use of a pickup stick helps a
weaver create a wide range of patterns on their rigid heddle loom.
Plain Weave
This is the
simplest weaving technique that everyone starts out with when they learn to
weave for the first time. To create this pattern, the weft thread needs to
alternatively go over and under the warp thread without skipping any
threads.
Ratchet
A toothed wheel placed at
the end of cloth and warp beams which is held by a pawl to keep the beam
from rotating.
Reed
It refers to a piece that
is similar to the rigid heddle except there are no holes. It determines the
sett of the cloth, maintains the warp width, and presses the yarn into
place.
Rigid Heddle Loom
A frame loom that
has a plastic rigid heddle with slots and holes. The weaver lifts and lowers
the heddle to move the threads. The rigid heddle also serves to spread the
warp, and is used to beat in the weft.
Sett
The spacing of the warp
yarns in the rigid-heddle.
Shed
The open space between
warp threads when the reed is lifted up or down, to allow you to pass a
shuttle through. While weaving, the warp threads are alternatingly separated
in two different sets; the upper set and the lower set. If you separate
these two sets you can pass the weft thread through the warp in one go. This
considerably speeds up the process and makes weaving much easier. The
separation between the upper and lower warp threads is called the shed.
Shot
See Pick
Shuttle
The shuttle is a
standard piece of equipment when it comes to weaving. It is normally a
wooden device which can come in many different shapes that is used to hold
the weft thread while weaving. The yarn-package (such as a pirn or plug)
carrier that passes through the shed of the warp to insert the weft during
weaving. Tool that holds the weft thread or yarn, carrying it from one side
of the weaving to the other.
Twill Weave
The twill weave is
well known because it creates distinct diagonal lines through the weave. To
pull off this effect, the weft thread needs to go over two warp thread and
then under two warp threads. On the next row, you then offset the pattern by
one thread to create the diagonal lines.
Warping
The preparation of
a number of threads (ends) which are arranged in order, number and width,
parallel to each other and wound on the back beam on the loom.
Warp
The lengthwise
threads in a weaving. The threads (ends) that run the length of the fabric
on the loom and are interlaced with weft (picks) to form the fabric.
Warp Thread
See Warp
Warp Yarn
See
Warp
Weave
The term weave is
used normally to describe the structure of a woven fabric or the process of
weaving which is usually carried out on a loom. Woven fabrics are
constructed with two sets of interlacing warp and weft yarns. The warp
yarns, or ends, are usually wound lengthwise on the loom, while the weft
yarns, or picks, interlace the warp at right angles to produce the fabric.
Warping Post
A Warping Post is
typically a single post that may be used in the warping process. It is
clamped to the edge of a table, and used to measure warp threads and provide
tension to warp yarn as it is wound onto a loom during the warping process.
They are especially useful for short warps (1-1/2 yards and shorter), and
are a critical tool when using the “direct warp” technique (which is
described in detail later in this information package).
Warping Pegs
See Warping Post
Weaving
Weaving is the process of
creating fabric by interlocking sets of threads traveling perpendicular to
one another. Warp yarns run vertically from the front of the loom to its
back; Weft yarns run horizontally back and forth across the warp. When these
two sets of threads (yarns) are interlocked, weaving has taken place! The
result is “Handwoven” fabric!!
Weft
The threads that are
passed across and through the warp by a shuttle or rapier to form a woven
fabric. The crosswise threads in a weaving. The weft can be thrown across in
a boat shuttle, handed across in a stick or ski shuttle, or placed in
patterns by hand.
Weft Thread
See Weft
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